Exploring Eco-Friendly Fabrics: Diving Into Lesser-Known Plant Materials
DEFINITIONS
Natural Fiber or Textile
Fibers from plants, animals, or minerals mechanically processed into threads and yarns to create woven or knitted fabrics. There are two main categories of natural fibers: animal-based and plant-based. Animal-based natural fibers include silk and wool, and plant-based natural fibers include cotton, linen, and jute.
Artificial Fiber or Textile
Natural materials such as vegetable cellulose or proteins undergo a chemical transformation to form yarn. Viscose, acetate, and rayon were the first types created, followed by Modal & Lyocell.
Synthetic Fiber or Textile
Man-made textile fibers such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, polyurethane (PU), polyvinyl chloride (PVC), and Spandex are produced through chemical synthesis using primarily fossil fuels.
Why Eco-Friendly Plant-Based Fabrics Matter
Plant-based fabrics, especially those processed with sustainability in mind, are key to reducing the environmental footprint of the fashion and textiles industry. They generally have a lighter impact on the planet, contributing less to pollution, waste, and water scarcity than synthetic or traditional fibers. However, the benefits of each material depend on sourcing, production methods, and end-use, as each of these plant-based fibers presents unique challenges. As consumers and brands increasingly prioritize sustainability, expanding the use of these fibers, improving their processing methods, and innovating within the supply chain will be essential to making truly eco-friendly textiles mainstream. By understanding the differences and challenges of each fiber, designers and consumers can make informed choices that align with their values and contribute to a more sustainable future in fashion and beyond.
In the quest for sustainable fashion, the choice of fabric holds significant sway in reducing environmental impact. While cotton, hemp, and bamboo are well-recognized eco-friendly options, there's a treasure trove of lesser-known plant materials worth exploring. Let's venture into the realm of eco-conscious fabrics, shed light on some lesser-known plant materials making waves in the fashion industry & understand why these fabrics are considered better alternatives for the planet.
Cotton
When most people are asked about a natural material, cotton is usually the first that comes to mind. It is natural, soft, and breathable. There are many types of cotton fibers and fabrics. Organic cotton is often touted as a sustainable alternative to conventional cotton. Grown without toxic pesticides or synthetic fertilizers, organic cotton relies on natural pest management, crop rotation, and soil fertility practices. Compared to conventional cotton, organic cotton uses a reduced amount of water, however, compared to other fibers it still requires considerable amounts of water, which can be costly, and water is a limited resource. Harvesting cotton bolls is labor intensive. They are typically hand-picked to avoid damage, though some larger farms may use specialized machinery. Fibers are ginned to separate seeds from the cotton fibers and then cleaned to remove any plant residue. Next fibers are spun into yarns through either open-end or ring spinning, with ring spinning offering softer results. The yarn can be woven or knitted, depending on the type of fabric and the intended use. The fibers and fabric can have a variety of treatments such as softeners, bleaching, dying, etc. Often, organic cotton undergoes less processing, which retains its natural feel and look.
CHALLENGES
of organic cotton
-requires considerable amount of water compared to other natural fibers
-labor-intensive
-high costs
-low crop yields
-economies of scale are very difficult
-high certification costs
-accessibility issues for small farmers
BENEFITS
of organic cotton
-natural fiber
-soft and breathable
-no harmful pesticides
-require less water than conventional cotton
HEMP
Hemp's versatility and biodegradability make it a staple in sustainable fashion. Renowned for its strength and durability, it is also naturally resistant to mold and UV light, making it ideal for outdoor wear. Hemp is one of the most eco-friendly fibers, as it grows rapidly, and requires minimal water and almost no pesticides. It is harvested by cutting the plant close to the base and the fiber is obtained from the stalk. The stalks are soaked (retted) to loosen the fibers which can be done with water, dew, or enzymes. A machine separates the fibers from the woody core, known as hurd. The fibers are cleaned to remove any residual hurd and impurities. Hemp fibers are typically spun using a wet spinning process, giving a finer, softer yarn. The yarn can be woven or blended with other fibers like organic cotton to soften its texture. Natural dyes are common, and enzyme treatments can soften the hemp fabric. Bleaching is optional in hemp processing, as many designers prefer the natural off-white, beige, or light green color of unbleached hemp. However, if pure white or a uniform color base is desired, bleaching is necessary. The two most common methods are hydrogen peroxide & oxygen-based bleaching as it’s less harmful than chlorine and doesn’t produce hazardous byproducts. After bleaching, hemp fibers are rinsed and neutralized to remove residual chemicals, maintaining fiber integrity and reducing the environmental impact.
BENEFITS
-strong & durable
-grows fast
-resistant to mold & UV light
-minimal water required
-no pesticides
-improves soil health
-biodegradable
CHALLENGES
-limited production
-limited availability in some regions
-hand feel can be rougher than cotton
Bamboo
Bamboo grows quickly without pesticides or fertilizers and it’s usually harvested when it reaches maturity, about 3-5 years. Bamboo does not require replanting after harvesting, making it seem like an ideal sustainable option. However, the process of turning bamboo into fabric can be problematic. Mature bamboo is strong and has long fibers, which are ideal for yarn production. After cutting, the bamboo stems are stripped of leaves and dried. Fibers can be extracted through the mechanical or chemical process, each resulting in different types of yarn. Mechanical Process is used for bamboo linen or bast bamboo yarn, where the fibers undergo minimal processing and retain a more natural texture. While eco-friendly, this process is labor-intensive, resulting in a coarser yarn. Chemical Process is more common and involves breaking down bamboo pulp chemically for viscose bamboo or rayon bamboo, resulting in a soft, smooth yarn similar to traditional viscose or rayon.
Bamboo fibers naturally have a green or yellow hue, so bleaching is often used to achieve a consistent white color, which makes dyeing easier and more vibrant. Hydrogen peroxide is commonly used to bleach bamboo fibers. Oxygen-based bleaches can also be used to whiten bamboo without harmful residues. This method is slower but gentler, often preferred in more sustainable production settings. Once the bamboo pulp has been bleached, it is carded and combed to align the fibers, creating a consistent sliver. The slivers are twisted into yarns and can be combined with other fibers, such as cotton or wool to create blended yarns that offer qualities of both fibers. Yarn dyeing (dyeing before weaving) or fabric dyeing (after weaving) may be used, depending on the end-use. Finishing treatments such as enzyme washes can be applied to improve the softness, durability, and texture of bamboo yarn. Finishing treatments also help bamboo yarn achieve a smoother, silk-like feel and ensure it is ready for further fabric production.
BENEFITS
-soft texture
-quick-growing plant
-without pesticides or fertilizers
-harvested at 3-5 years
-does not require replanting after harvesting
-strong & long fibers
CHALLENGES
-chemical process is more common
-processed with toxic chemicals
for soft, smooth yarn
Tencel™ Lyocell
Tencel™ is celebrated for its softness, breathability, and moisture-wicking properties. A form of lyocell fiber, it is made from responsibly managed forests and sustainably sourced wood pulp, primarily from eucalyptus, beech, or spruce trees often used because of their rapid growth and low need for water or pesticides.
After the trees are harvested, they are debarked, cut into small chips, and dried. The wood chips are mixed with water and broken down using an organic solvent called N-methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO), where most of it can be recovered and reused in a closed-loop system. The fibers are stretched to align together, increasing their strength and uniformity for spinning into yarn. Lyocell fibers are often blended with other fibers, like cotton or wool, to combine beneficial properties. For instance, blending with cotton can add softness, while blending with wool adds warmth and texture. To improve softness and durability, the fibers may undergo enzyme washes or treatments. This step enhances the fiber’s feel and quality, preparing it for fabric production. Tencel™ yarns are woven or knitted into a variety of fabrics, from denim to jersey.
BENEFITS
-softness, breathability, & moisture-wicking properties
-made from responsibly managed forests & sustainably sourced wood pulp
-primarily from eucalyptus, beech, or spruce trees because of their rapid growth
-low need for water or pesticides
-closed-loop system
-recycles water & solvents
-minimizes waste & chemical use
CHALLENGES
- limited production
-costlier than other fibers
-availability varies by region
-high water consumption
-dependant on N-methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO)
-leaks or spills of NMMO can lead to local environmental contamination, harming surrounding ecosystems & water supplies.
-NMMO must be carefully managed to avoid large amounts of exposure to workers
-may shed microfibers when washed
Modal
Modal is known for its luxurious drape and silky texture. A type of rayon made from beech tree pulp is primarily processed in a way similar to viscose rayon, though it is modified to improve fiber strength and softness. The processing of Modal fibers into yarns involves several steps, each designed to convert wood pulp into fine, smooth yarn suitable for textiles.
The raw material is sustainably sourced beech wood, typically harvested from managed forests, mainly in Europe. The production involves harsh chemicals, including sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) and carbon disulfide, used to dissolve and regenerate cellulose. These chemicals are toxic and can pose serious health risks if they are not managed properly. Wastewater containing these chemicals may be released into the environment, contaminating local water bodies and soil. Whitening agents, such as oxygen-based or peroxide bleaches, are sometimes used here to give the cellulose a bright, white appearance, preparing it for subsequent chemical treatments. The freshly regenerated fibers are washed to remove residual chemicals, which are mostly captured and recycled in a closed-loop process to reduce waste and pollution. The Modal fibers are then drawn and stretched to increase the fiber’s strength and durability, distinguishing Modal from standard viscose to create a more resilient structure that resists shrinking and pilling.
Modal fibers are typically cut into short lengths known as staple fibers, which resemble cotton and are spun into yarn using traditional spinning methods. This step creates smooth, fine yarns that retain the softness, durability, and high moisture-absorbency that Modal is known for. Because Modal fibers absorb dye well, it requires less dye to achieve vibrant colors compared to other fibers, retains color well and resists fading.
Modal fibers can be blended with other fibers such as cotton, polyester, or spandex to enhance specific properties like elasticity or texture. The yarn may undergo further treatments to enhance properties like softness, luster, or wrinkle resistance. Finishing treatments are carefully chosen to maintain Modal’s natural qualities, such as breathability and smooth texture. Modal yarns are typically woven or knitted for lightweight, soft fabrics.
CHALLENGES
-toxic chemical used to produce fibers
-high water usage
-slow-growing
-workers are exposed to hazardous chemicals know to cause dizziness, headaches, & even long-term cognitive impairment
-energy-intensive production processes
-not compostable
-limited recycling options
BENEFITS
-made from natural beech wood
-strong & durable
-breathable
-smooth texture
-luxurious drape & silky texture
Soybean
Soybean fiber or soy silk, is a byproduct of the soyfood industry, making it a sustainable choice that repurposes waste materials. Derived from soy protein, it is often referred to as “vegetable cashmere,” for its soft, luxurious hand feel akin to silk. Its moisture-wicking properties and minimal water usage in production make it ideal for activewear and loungewear.
Soybeans used for soy silk fiber are typically sourced from soy by-products, specifically the residue or "okara" left over after oil extraction. This by-product would otherwise go to waste, so using it for fiber production supports zero-waste principles. Once the soybeans are harvested and oil is extracted, the leftover protein-rich okara can be further refined to create fiber. Proteins are liquefied and extruded into fibers in a method similar to the production of conventional silk. These treatments are necessary to break down the complex protein structures in the soybean material, making it pliable for fiber formation. The newly formed soy fibers are stretched and stabilized to increase their tensile strength. This stretching helps align the protein molecules within the fiber, improving durability and elasticity.
Although soy silk naturally has a light, creamy color, bleaching may still be applied to achieve a uniform white appearance if the yarn is intended to be dyed lighter or pastel shades. Bleaching agents such as hydrogen peroxide are commonly used in eco-friendly bleaching for soy silk. Once the soy fibers are bleached and washed, they undergo carding and combing processes, similar to cotton fiber processing to remove shorter fibers, resulting in a smooth, uniform fiber bundle giving them additional strength and flexibility, ultimately resulting in a finished yarn producing a soft, cashmere-like texture ready for dyeing or fabric production. Soy silk fibers, being highly absorbent, take well to dyes, therefore require less dye and shorter dye times, minimizing water and chemical use. Some manufacturers may apply an anti-pilling finish to enhance their durability, particularly because plant-based protein fibers can sometimes develop pills with wear and washing. Yarns are woven or knitted for soft, high-end fabrics.
CHALLENGES
-limited production
-high cost
-lower durability compared to other fibers
-chemical use in fiber production
-water-intensive crop
-deforestation in sensitive ecosystems like the Amazon rainforest
-water pollution from fertilizers and pesticides
-workers may suffer from health risks handling the chemicals without adequate protective gear & safety protocols
-dependency on genetically modified (GM) soy
-microfiber pollution
BENEFITS
-made from soy waste
-soft & smooth texture
-renewable
-waste reduction
-moisture-wicking properties
-minimal water usage in production
-low-impact dyeing
-biodegradable when properly disposed of
Nettle
Nettle fiber is an ancient textile material that is making a modern comeback. Nettle grows wild and requires no pesticides or fertilizers. Used as a sustainable fiber for centuries, primarily in Europe and Asia, it offers naturally durable, breathability, lightness, and antibacterial properties. Its biodegradability and resilience in diverse climates make it a sustainable choice. The process of transforming nettle fibers into yarn for fabric production is an intricate one that spans several stages, from the harvesting of the nettle plant to the final spinning of fibers into yarn. Utilizing fibers from the stinging nettle plant, they are typically harvested in the summer or early autumn when the stems are fully grown but before they flower. Nettles can grow up to six feet tall, and the fibrous stalks provide the raw material for yarn production. Stems are cut close to the ground and dried, either by hanging them in bundles or laying them out in the sun. Drying is crucial as it helps reduce moisture content, making further processing easier and preventing decay. Hackling or combing involves passing the fibers through fine-toothed combs to align the fibers and remove any remaining impurities. This process also separates the long fibers, known as line fibers, from shorter fibers, called tow fibers. The long line fibers are generally used for high-quality, finer yarns, while tow fibers can be spun into coarser yarns. This sorting step also helps create uniformity, which improves the quality of the final yarn. The fibers are spun into yarn, resulting in a fabric that is similar to linen. Nettle yarns can be plied (twisted together with other yarns to achieve various thicknesses, textures, and strengths) often blended with other fibers like cotton for a softer texture.
Nettle fibers typically range from grey to off-white in their natural state. While these tones may be preferred for natural or rustic applications, bleaching may be performed to achieve a lighter, whiter color. Minimal treatments are required, as the nettle absorbs dye well and retains color over time.
Nettle fabrics, whether woven or knit, are known for their durability, breathability, and versatility.
CHALLENGES
-production is not widely scaled
-limited availability
-challenging to process
-natural fibers can feel coarse
-labor-intensive process
-water retting pollution
-variable fiber quality
BENEFITS
-grows wild
-grows in a wide range of climates
-requires minimal water
-naturally pest-resistant
-strong fiber, soft when processed
-naturally durable, breathability, light, & antibacterial
-natural dye absorption
-renewable plant resource
-decomposes naturally
Banana
Banana fiber, also known as Musa fiber, is derived from the pseudostems of banana plants, which are typically a byproduct of banana fruit production. These fibers have been traditionally used in countries like India, Japan, Nepal, and the Philippines. Known for its strength, durability, and natural gloss, it offers a unique texture and drape making it suitable for a range of applications from clothing to accessories. Its production utilizes waste from banana cultivation, reducing environmental impact and supporting rural economies.
The process begins with collecting banana pseudostems after the fruit harvest. Banana plants yield fruit only once, so the pseudostems would otherwise be discarded or burned to clear the land. In regions without access to machinery, workers manually strip the pseudostem to access the fibers. This labor-intensive process involves scraping the outer layers and pulling fibers by hand, producing a smoother and softer fiber. Banana fibers contain natural gums and lignin, making them stiff and rigid. Degumming is essential to soften the fibers for textile use.
Banana fibers are generally off-white to light brown, so bleaching is sometimes applied to achieve a lighter or more uniform shade before dyeing or finishing. If bleaching is required, hydrogen peroxide is typically used, however, oxygen or ozone-based bleaching agents can be used for a low-impact bleaching process. Banana fiber takes natural dyes well, allowing for eco-friendly coloring options.
Sometimes banana fiber is blended with other fibers like cotton, silk, or hemp to enhance softness and improve fabric qualities. This is especially common when a softer hand feel is desired. Banana fibers yield a strong, glossy yarn that can range from coarse to fine, depending on the intended textile use. Once spun, the banana fiber yarn is woven or knitted into fabric. The resulting fabric is typically breathable, lightweight, and has a natural sheen, making it suitable for a variety of textiles, including clothing, upholstery, and industrial applications.
CHALLENGES
-limited large-scale production
-processing is labor-intensive
-supply depends on agricultural byproducts.
-some methods involve chemicals
-degumming & bleaching may use significant amounts of water
-pesticides & chemical fertilizers are often applied
BENEFITS
-utilizes agricultural waste
-strong & durability
-natural luster
-biodegradable
-natural dyes
-fibers are air-dried under the sun
Sisal
Sisal is a hardy plant that grows well in arid regions and requires minimal water, making it suitable for sustainable farming. They grow well on poor soils and do not require fertilizers or pesticides. Sisal, derived from the leaves of the Agave sisalana plant, is valued for its strength, durability, abrasion resistance, versatility, and biodegradability, making it suitable for heavy-duty applications such as rugs and upholstery.
The processing of sisal fibers into yarns involves several stages. The leaves are harvested manually by cutting. Each plant produces around 200-250 leaves over its 7-10 year lifespan. Each leaf can contain up to 1,000 individual fibers. The mechanical process effectively separates the sisal fibers from the fleshy parts of the leaf. The leftover plant pulp is often composted, used for bioenergy, or as fertilizer. This helps minimize waste in the sisal production process. The fibers are dried, typically by sun-drying, which is energy-efficient and environmentally friendly. The drying process is critical to ensure the fibers remain strong and to prevent mold or bacterial growth. Sisal yarn can be coarse or fine depending on the intended use, with finer yarns requiring more precise control during spinning.
Sisal's natural color is an off-white or creamy beige. To achieve a whiter yarn, bleaching is sometimes done using hydrogen peroxide. Care is taken during bleaching to avoid weakening the fibers, as too much exposure can compromise their strength. Sisal can be dyed using either natural or synthetic dyes, depending on the desired colorfastness and aesthetic.
CHALLENGES
-coarse texture limits use in apparel
-limited large-scale apparel applications
-labor-intensive
-wastewater from the industrial process
-chlorine-based chemicals for bleaching
BENEFITS
-grows in dry areas
-requires minimal water
-no pesticides or synthetic fertilizers
-strong, durable, abrasion-resistant, versatile
-biodegradable
-renewable resource
-waste products are often composted or used for bioenergy
-fibers are typically sun-dried
Long-Term Impacts of Natural Fibers
Consumer Acceptance and Lifecycle Issues
Natural fibers are known for their durability, but each fiber may wear differently than conventional fibers like cotton or synthetic blends, impacting consumer acceptance. Without proper care, garments may wear out faster, leading to shorter product lifecycles.
Land Use, Deforestation, and Soil Degradation
Land Use Change
Natural fiber production requires large tracts of land. As the demand grows, large-scale cultivation may lead to the conversion of wild lands and forests being cleared to make way for crop plantations. Even sourcing from sustainably managed forests, the demand can exert pressure on forest resources and may lead to unsustainable harvesting practices if supply chains are not managed carefully. There is a risk that companies may resort to sourcing from non-certified or vulnerable forests. A fiber’s popularity could incentivize unsustainable logging practices, especially in regions where forestry regulations are weak. If not managed sustainably, it can lead to loss of biodiversity, disruption of ecosystems, a reduction in carbon sequestration and reduced resilience of local ecosystems, creating a long-term ecological impact.
Monoculture
Monoculture farming is the practice of growing only one type of crop at a time, in a specific field which can deplete soil nutrients and lead to soil erosion. Intensive cultivation requires significant land area and in many cases, the use of pesticides and fertilizers to maintain yields. Over time, these factors reduce the sustainability of the land, making it harder to farm other crops, making the land less productive for future use and further disrupting local ecosystems.
Crop rotation, polyculture, and organic farming methods can reduce the negative impacts of monoculture farming; however, these practices may be more costly and less profitable in the short term for farmers.
Soil Erosion
Intensive farming can lead to soil degradation. Continuous cultivation of a single crop on the same land without crop rotation weakens soil health, decreasing agricultural productivity over time. It can lead to soil degradation, due to nutrient depletion, erosion, and reliance on monocropping, especially if good agricultural practices (like crop rotation or soil enrichment) are not followed. This depletes the natural fertility of the land, potentially requiring the introduction of synthetic fertilizers over time, which can cause environmental harm.
Biodiversity Impact
Large areas dedicated to growing a single plant or tree species can outcompete native flora, altering local ecosystems and displacing native plants and animals due to their rapid growth and dense canopies that inhibit sunlight for other species, potentially leading to the loss of native species, especially if chemical aids are used to enhance production.
Impact on Local Communities
Large-scale farming can displace local indigenous communities, as companies acquire vast areas of land, leading to the loss of traditional livelihoods and food sources.
Deforestation can have far-reaching impacts on habitat loss, carbon emissions, and indigenous communities who rely on forests for their livelihoods. This could undermine the fiber's initial sustainability claims.
Social and Economic Challenges
Labor Conditions, Exploitation, and Regulations
Crop cultivation and processing are labor-intensive, often in developing regions disproportionately affecting low-income and rural workers, where worker protections are limited and may not be closely regulated, leading to higher exposure risks. Workers often face poor working conditions, low wages, long hours, and limited access to fair labor rights and health benefits, perpetuating cycles of poverty and exploitation. The physical demands of harvesting crops, along with limited mechanization, increase the risk of injury and health issues among laborers. Exposure to chemicals like sodium hydroxide, sulfuric acid, and carbon disulfide can be hazardous for workers in production facilities. Carbon disulfide (Modal production) is a known neurotoxin that can cause severe health effects, including dizziness, headaches, and even long-term cognitive impairment with prolonged exposure. Without adequate protective gear and safety protocols, workers may suffer from respiratory issues, skin burns, and other health risks associated with handling these chemicals. These situations are especially concerning in low-cost production centers where worker health is often compromised to maintain competitive pricing. Poor working conditions in these settings can also contribute to broader issues of labor exploitation and unethical practices in the textile industry.
Without investment in fair trade practices, the benefits of using natural fibers may not reach the communities that produce them, leading to socioeconomic disparities. Implementing fair trade standards and improving working conditions can help to reduce these negative social impacts, ensuring that workers receive fair wages and that labor rights are upheld.
Supply Chain Transparency
Fiber production is expanding, with more manufacturers entering the market. Not all producers adhere to the same environmental and social standards, potentially leading to inconsistencies in sustainability and labor practices across the supply chain making supply chain transparency essential. Transparency enables companies to effectively track and monitor the environmental impact throughout the entire fiber production process, from cultivation to processing. It provides brands and consumers with insights into the amounts of water, energy, and chemicals used, as well as the carbon emissions generated at each stage. This clarity makes it easier to identify harmful practices and ensures that fair labor practices and working conditions are upheld for farm and factory workers.
Furthermore, transparency helps avoid exploitative labor practices, such as forced labor or child labor, particularly in regions where labor regulations are less strict. Transparent supply chains can empower rural communities by providing fair wages, safe working conditions, and stable employment, which in turn boosts the local economy and improves quality of life.
Additionally, transparency helps prevent the mixing of genuine natural fibers with lower-quality or synthetic alternatives, assuring consumers that they are purchasing authentic, high-quality products that align with their ethical and sustainability expectations.
As climate change and resource scarcity are urgent issues, transparent supply chains allow companies to plan and adapt effectively by identifying sustainable sources and practices for continued improvement. This helps ensure the availability of resources for the long term.
Chemical Inputs
Pesticides and Fertilizer
In conventional farming, pesticides and chemical fertilizers are often heavily applied to maintain crop yields and protect against pests. The runoff from pesticides and fertilizers can pollute soil and water sources, leading to ecological imbalances. This contamination poses risks to wildlife, aquatic organisms, and even human health, especially for nearby communities. Soil health may deteriorate over time, leading to lower yields and reduced resilience of crops. Organic farming practices and integrated pest management can help minimize the environmental impact of farming.
Chemical Use in Fiber Production
Producing soy silk involves dissolving soy proteins in sodium hydroxide (caustic soda), which is a strong chemical that can be harmful if not properly handled. Additionally, the process requires acid baths, often containing sulfuric acid, to solidify the fiber strands. Modal production involves harsh chemicals, including sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) and carbon disulfide, used to dissolve and regenerate cellulose. Tencel™ Lyocell production relies on a chemical solvent, N-Methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO) to dissolve cellulose in a closed-loop system. Certain fibers require degumming to remove natural gums, lignin, and pectin. In some cases, manufacturers use chemical agents, such as sodium hydroxide or bleach, to soften or whiten the fibers. These chemicals are toxic and can pose serious health risks to workers and the environment if they are not managed properly. In poorly regulated factories, wastewater containing these chemicals may be released into the environment, contaminating local water bodies and soil. Leaks or spills during production can lead to local environmental contamination, harming surrounding ecosystems and water supplies. Additionally, the chemicals must be carefully managed to avoid occupational health risks for workers exposed to large amounts of the solvent.
The use of chemicals, if not carefully managed, can lead to wastewater pollution, which harms aquatic ecosystems and contaminates soil. Waste from degumming and bleaching processes can also disrupt the balance of local ecosystems, causing long-term harm to plants, animals, and soil microorganisms along with the drinking water and food systems of local communities.
Bleaching
Many manufacturers bleach the natural fibers to achieve a bright white fiber or consistent color. This bleaching process often involves hydrogen peroxide, sodium hypochlorite, or chlorine-based agents, which have environmental implications if not properly managed. Chlorine, in particular, can produce toxic byproducts such as dioxins, which are harmful to ecosystems and human health. If these chemicals leach into the ecosystem, they can disrupt local water bodies and soil quality, harming aquatic life and soil microorganisms.
Dyeing
While natural fibers take natural dyes well, the industry’s reliance on synthetic dyes introduces risks associated with chemical pollution, as synthetic dyes often contain heavy metals and other toxic components. Intensive dyeing processes often require water, energy, and additional chemicals to stabilize colors. If wastewater from dyeing is not treated, it can leach chemicals into rivers and soils. Improper management of dye effluents can lead to water pollution, affecting aquatic life and potentially entering human water sources. Some small-scale or unregulated manufacturers may not manage dye effluent in an environmentally safe way, especially in regions with less strict environmental laws.
Water Consumption and Wastewater
Farming
Water-intensive crops can strain local water supplies, particularly in areas where water scarcity is already an issue. In drought-prone regions, water use for farming can exacerbate local water shortages. Fertilizers and pesticides can run off into nearby water bodies, leading to water pollution. This can cause eutrophication, which results in the overgrowth of algae, depleting oxygen in water bodies and harming aquatic life. Pesticide contamination can also pose health risks to humans and wildlife.
Processing
Fiber processing can be water-intensive, particularly in the degumming, bleaching, and washing stages. Traditional water retting is commonly used for nettle and other bast fibers (like flax and hemp) and involves soaking the stalks in water to break down the pectin. Dew retting, which uses natural dew and microbial action, is less water-intensive but can take much longer. Both processes produce wastewater high in organic matter, potentially harming aquatic ecosystems and can disrupt soil quality if not managed carefully.
Disposal
After processing, water containing residual chemicals and dyes needs to be treated. If the production is not done in a closed-loop system, residual chemicals and processing agents are often discharged as wastewater.
While many manufacturers aim to treat wastewater to high standards, any lapses in treatment protocols could result in contamination of local water bodies which can harm local ecosystems, killing aquatic life and impacting drinking water supplies for nearby communities.
Excessive water use in regions where water is scarce can strain local water supplies, affecting communities that rely on this water for agriculture, drinking, and other necessities. The wastewater, if untreated, may also carry residual chemicals into rivers and streams, negatively impacting water quality for both the local communities and aquatic life.
Public Health Implications
Persistent water pollution from processing facilities can have long-term effects on public health, especially in communities that rely on nearby water sources. Exposure to chemical runoff can cause skin conditions, respiratory problems, and other chronic health issues.
Post-Consumer Waste and Disposal Issues
End-of-Life Disposal and Biodegradability
Natural Fibers
Generally, natural fibers are biodegradable and compostable, however, they require certain environmental conditions to break down effectively. For consumers without access to composting facilities, natural fiber products might still end up in landfills, where decomposition is slowed.
Artificial fibers such as Model & Lyocell
Although Modal is derived from cellulose and is technically biodegradable, it often undergoes treatments and coatings that can limit its biodegradability in natural settings. Additionally, if dyed or finished with non-eco-friendly agents, these additives can hinder the fiber’s ability to break down. Once blended with other fibers (e.g., polyester or elastane for stretch), Modal becomes challenging to recycle. Mixed-fiber fabrics are difficult to separate, and recycling infrastructure for Modal-blend fabrics is limited, leading to a significant portion of waste ending up in landfills.
Although Tencel™ Lyocell is biodegradable, it may not fully break down in all environments. When disposed of improperly, the fiber could take several months to years to degrade, especially in marine environments. Additionally, residues from treatments and dyes could stay in the environment, posing long-term risks to aquatic ecosystems. Like other cellulosic and synthetic fibers, Tencel™ Lyocell may shed microfibers when washed. These microfibers can enter waterways and potentially affect marine life. Although cellulose-based fibers are more biodegradable than synthetic microplastics, they may still carry chemical residues from dyeing or finishing treatments, which could persist in the environment.
Encouraging proper disposal, reuse, and recycling practices can reduce the environmental impact of discarded textiles. Education on composting or returning fabrics to fiber production facilities could also minimize post-consumer waste.
Economic Dependence, Market Competition, & Economic Viability
For communities that rely heavily on natural fiber production, any market instability can lead to economic hardship. If global demand for products declines, these communities may face high levels of poverty and food insecurity. Communities reliant on production face economic risks if global demand fluctuates or prices fall. Over-reliance on a single crop can create economic vulnerabilities, making communities susceptible to poverty if demand decreases due to competition from synthetic or alternative natural fibers.
Challenges in Scaling and Limited Regional Production
Natural fiber production is concentrated in certain regions, depending on the type of fiber. The fiber’s extraction and processing require specific techniques that may not be scalable in other areas. Over time, as natural fibers become a larger part of the textile industry, the pressure to commercialize and cut costs could result in shifting away from sustainable practices, thus diminishing the eco-friendly reputation.
Diversifying fiber production to include a range of natural sustainable fibers can help to reduce reliance on one fiber while supporting localized production.
Climate Change and Crop Viability
Climate change is affecting the viability of natural fiber crops, influencing everything from growing seasons to the quality and yield of fibers. Each natural fiber has specific environmental needs, including temperature, water availability, and soil quality. Shifts in climate can disrupt these requirements, making some regions less suitable for cultivation and impacting the long-term sustainability of natural fiber production. To ensure the future of eco-friendly fibers, it’s essential to support adaptive farming practices, invest in resilient crop varieties, and implement sustainable land and water management. Promoting transparency and traceability within supply chains also plays a crucial role in understanding the full environmental impact and building resilient agricultural systems that can withstand the challenges of a changing climate.
Energy Use and Carbon Footprint
Energy Demands in Manufacturing
The various stages of production, including protein extraction, spinning, and chemical treatments, require significant energy. Modal & Tencel™ Lyocell production, particularly in the processing, solvent recovery, spinning, and drying stages, requires substantial energy, which is often derived from fossil fuels in low-cost manufacturing hubs, reducing its overall sustainability. Without renewable energy sources, this reliance on energy contributes to a higher carbon footprint, reducing the fiber’s overall sustainability.
Carbon Footprint of Transportation
Depending on where processing occurs, the fiber might need to be transported between multiple facilities for each stage of the process which adds to the environmental impact of the finished product.
Production is often in specific manufacturing facilities, often far from end markets. Transporting raw materials and finished fibers over long distances adds to the overall carbon footprint. This impact is magnified if transported via fossil fuel-powered methods like shipping or air freight.
The importance of plant-based fabrics in the fashion and textiles industries is their potential to reduce environmental impact compared to synthetic or traditional fibers. While materials like organic cotton, hemp, and bamboo are commonly recognized as eco-friendly, there is a vast range of other plant materials worth exploring that are a regenerative material source, with lower environmental impacts, including fewer resources for crop growth, limited chemicals to process and finish fibers and utilizing renewable solar energy for a lower carbon footprint. Each fiber has its advantages and disadvantages, but all share common long-term challenges, including land requirements, labor intensity, water usage, and production scaling. Improvements are continuously being made along with the exploration and innovations of new materials. Through innovation and conscious choices to embrace these lesser-known plant materials, companies and designers can pave the way for a greener, more sustainable future.
